Insulation & Air Sealing Specialists in Wakefield, VA

A homeowner in Wakefield, Virginia called us at The Drying Co./ThermalTec to discuss major moisture problems that they were experiencing within their homes crawl space. We sent out one of our knowledgeable and skilled home performance advisors to evaluate the situation and propose solutions to each problem.

The first thing we noticed upon inspection was the amount of mud and water sitting on top of the existing vapor barrier. Fallen paperback fiberglass insulation littered the floor with dark, smelly mold growing on it. The foundation walls were covered in efflorescence, proof of water infiltration through the foundation walls. Mold and mildew were growing on many of the organic materials found within the crawl space, which tells us that the relative humidity is at least 60%, and outside influence is affecting the crawl.

The first proposition to help encapsulate this crawl space and fix these moisture issues would be to remove all debris and litter from the crawl’s flooring. The old flimsy 6-mil vapor barrier will need to be detached from the floor and taken out. Once the crawl space is clear, we would propose using Shockwave, an EPA-registered antimicrobial, to kill mold and mildew on all affected wood structures. If left to continue growing, the musty odors from the mold would continue to find their way into the floor above, and prolonged exposure to mold spores can lead to asthma and irritation to those with allergies. We will be able to help prevent these issues by cleaning any affected organic materials with Shockwave but encapsulating the crawl space and controlling the environment is the only way to prevent mold and mildew growth from reoccurring.

Our next focus would be to seal the crawl space from the earth’s moisture, to help better control the relative humidity. With the old flimsy 6-mil liner removed, we would propose installing a 20-mil CleanSpace vapor barrier. This durable and tear-resistant vapor barrier has a 7-layer polyethylene composition, with polyester cord reinforcement. It is capable of withstanding service people crawling on top of it over and over, without ripping. This liner is finished with an antimicrobial called UltraFresh, which will help to prevent mold growth on the liner itself but will not keep mold growth from occurring on any dust or dirt that lays upon it. We would wrap it around all piers and columns and fasten it to the foundation wall. With the liner installed, the moisture rising from the earth will find it difficult to penetrate the crawl space and add to the relative humidity.

The next proposition would be to insulate the foundation walls. This homeowner was using fiberglass insulation batts within the floor joists, which is common in Wakefield, Virginia, and Virginian homes in general. We would propose insulating the foundation walls instead, as it would bring the crawl space into the insulated space, giving us better control of the relative humidity and environment in the crawl. Air and moisture can leak through the porous cinder block walls, while the open vents lining the foundation walls allow an immeasurable amount of outside influence to impact the crawl space. Efflorescence was visible on walls, which tells us that water seeped through the blocks, bringing with it the salts and sediments within those blocks to the surface. The first thing would be to cover the inside of these open vents with precisely cut foam board pieces and sealed with can foam. Then we would use closed-cell spray foam to insulate the foundation walls. At 1.5 inches thick, this spray foam acts as an air barrier and vapor retarder, giving better protection from outside influence. We apply spray foam,  leaving a two-inch viewing strip for termite inspectors. With the walls insulated, the crawl space can become apart of the conditioned space of the home.

The last proposition we would suggest would be to add a SaniDry Sedona, a high-performance dehumidifier capable of controlling the relative humidity. We would set it to keep the humidity under 55%, for mold growth can begin around 60%. The homeowner would be given a hygrometer to monitor this humidity and the temperature of the crawl space and the home. The dehumidifier would be connected to a Little Giant condensation pump to drain any collected water and to pump it out of the crawl space via a hose line. With this proposition in place, we could help them better control the environment and help prevent any of these moisture issues from happening in the crawl space again.

If you are experiencing cold floors in the winter, or musty odors and moisture damage in the warmer seasons, then please contact us at The Drying Co./ThermalTec for a free estimate. Our friendly and professional team will help you make your home more comfortable, affordable, and energy-efficient. Give us a call today!

A Wakefield, VA homeowner reached out to us about their home renovation project. They had completely gutted the property down to its studs and were looking to insulate the building from top to bottom.

The attic had some existing flooring down the center of the space for storage and either side of the flooring was exposed joists. To insulate the attic, we recommended dense packing cellulose insulation under the flooring then adding blown-in cellulose on the exposed floor with a dam to prevent the insulation from falling onto the walkway. This approach allows the homeowners to keep the existing flooring and still protect the rooms below from radiant heat in the summer and heat loss in the winter.

For the entire home, we recommended air sealing to stop conditioned air loss, drafts, and air leakage. This includes sealing around doors and windows, and bottom plates. We also want to seal around all exterior utility penetrations from the basement, crawl space, and walls. Then, we would install batt insulation in the exterior walls.

For the crawl space, the homeowner did not want to encapsulate, so we discussed the options for insulating the floor and installing a new vapor barrier. The standard at construction is a 6-mil vapor retarder, however, we recommend using a heavy-duty liner, such as a 10 or 20 mil. The more durable liner can be attached to the foundation walls, sealed at the seams, and wrapped around piers to isolate the crawl space from the earth’s moisture. A 6-mil is too flimsy to be attached to the walls, it just rips off, it has a slick coating that makes sealing the seams difficult and temporary. The liner is held in place by U-shaped anchors that only add more holes to the liner and allow more moisture to rise from the ground. As far as insulation, the standard at construction is fiberglass batts between the floor joists. This is often a problem for the homeowner later on because the moisture and humidity in the crawl space damage the batts causing them to deteriorate and fall. They also allow air to easily pass through pulling dirt, dust, or allergens in the crawl space up into the home. Since the homeowner does not want to insulate from the foundation walls, they can either choose to install fiberglass batts or closed-cell spray foam insulation. Closed-cell spray foam will offer a vapor retarder and air barrier, allowing the homeowner to have warmer floors and protect their indoor air quality.

These proposed solutions will help this homeowner be comfortable in their newly renovated home by reducing drafts, keeping temperatures even throughout the home, and reducing energy bills.